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Trouble Shooting
Choosing The Right Mechanic
Know Your Rights
MAINTENANCE TIPS
Air Filter Check it every month. Replace it when it becomes dirty or as part of a tune -up. It is easy to reach, right
under the big metal 'lid', in a carbureted engine; or in a rectangular box at the forward end of the air in a duct
hose assembly.
Battery Extreme caution should be taken while handling a battery since it can produce explosive gases. It is
advisable not to smoke, create a spark or light a match near a battery. Always wear protective glasses and gloves.
Belts Inspect belts and hoses smoothly. Replace glazed, worn or frayed belts. Replace bulging, rotten or brittle
hoses and tighten clamps. If a hose looks bad, or feels too soft or too hard, it should be replaced.
Brake Fluid Check the brake fluid monthly. First wipe dirt from the brake master cylinder reservoir lid. Pry off the
retainer clip and remove the lid or unscrew the plastic lid, depending on which type your vehicle has. If you need
fluid, add the improved type and check for possible leaks throughout the system. Do not overfill.
Engine Oil Check the oil after every fill up. Remove the dipstick, wipe it clean. Insert it fully and remove it again. If
it is low, add oil. To maintain peak performance, the oil should be changed every 3,000 miles or 3 months,
whichever comes first. Replace the oil filter with every oil change.
Exhaust Look underneath for loose or broken exhaust clamps and supports. Check for holes in muffler or pipes.
Replace the rusted or damaged parts. Have the emission checked at once per year for compliance with local laws.
Hoses Inspect the hoses and belts monthly. If a hose looks bad, or feels too soft or too hard, it should be replaced.
Lights Make sure that all your lights are clean and working, including the brake lights, turn signals and emergency
flashers. Keep spare bulbs and fuses in your vehicle.
Oil Filter To maintain peak performance, change oil every 3 months or 3,000 miles whichever comes first.
Replace oil filter with every oil change.
Power Steering Fluid Check the power steering fluid level once per month. Check it by removing the reservoir
dipstick. If the level is down, add fluid and inspect the pump and hoses for leaks.
Shock Absorbers Look for signs of oil seepage on shock absorbers, test shock action by bouncing the car up and
down. The car should stop bouncing when you step back. Worn or leaking shocks should be replaced. Always
replace shock absorbers in pairs.
Tires Keep tires inflated to recommended pressure. Check for cuts, bulges and excessive tread wear. Uneven wear
indicates tires are misaligned or out of balance.
Transmission Fluid Check transmission fluid monthly with engine warm and running, and the parking brake on.
Shift to drive, then to park. Remove dipstick, wipe dry, insert it and remove it again. Add the approved type fluid, if
needed. Never overfill.
Washer Fluid Keep the windshield washer fluid reservoir full. Use some of it to clean off the wiper blades.
Wiper Blades Inspect the windscreen wiper blades whenever you clean your windshield. Do not wait until the
rubber is worn or brittle to replace them. They should be replaced at least once per year, and more often if
smearing occurs.
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TROUBLE SHOOTING
Steering & Suspension
Have you noticed uneven tire wear?
Or while driving have you noticed an off-center steering wheel?
Swaying, drifting or pulling?
Difficult steering?
Any of these symptoms may indicate the need for service or repairs to your vehicle's steering and suspension
system.
If you answered "yes" to any of these questions, Call us at Automotive & Collision Center Inc.
Brakes
Any of these symptoms may indicate the need for service or repairs to your vehicle's braking system.
Do you hear a squealing noise that stops when you apply the brake pedal?
Does your vehicle pull when braking?
Do your brakes make a grinding noise when coming to a stop?
Brake pedal vibrates?
Parking brake won't hold?
If you answered "yes" to any of these questions, Call us at Automotive & Collision Center Inc.
Cooling System
Is your engine running HOT?
Does the engine leak green fluid from the cooling system?
Are the hoses over 4 years old?
Are the belts loose or due for replacement?
Any of these conditions may indicate the need for service or repairs to your vehicle's engine cooling system.
If you answered "yes" to any of these questions, Call us at Automotive & Collision Center Inc.
Starting & Charging Systems
Does your vehicle start slowly?
Do extreme temperatures affect you vehicle's ability to start?
Does your vehicle need to be jump started?
Any of these conditions may indicate the need for service or repairs to your vehicle's starting and charging system.
If you answered "yes" to any of these questions, Call us at Automotive & Collision Center Inc.
Engine
Need your oil changed?
Are the filters overdue for replacement?
Is it time to perform the vehicle manufacturer's scheduled maintenance?
If you answered "yes" to any of these questions, Call us at Automotive & Collision Center Inc.
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CHOOSING THE RIGHT MECHANIC
Your car, truck or van is the second costliest purchase you will ever make -- out ranked only by your home. And it's
also likely that you're discouraged by the thought of maintaining your vehicle. Today's vehicles seem too complex
for your own backyard tinkering, and finding a good repair facility with competent mechanics seems more difficult
than it should be.
Fortunately there's a group that can help take much of the guesswork out of finding a competent mechanic. The
independent, nonprofit National Institute for Automotive Service Excellence, better known as ASE, is dedicated to
improving automotive service and repair by testing and certifying the competence of individual mechanics, or
"technicians," to use today's terminology.
ASE is the only automotive certification group that is both national in scope and industry-wide. It is self-supporting,
with a forty-member, volunteer board of directors drawn from all segments of the automotive service industry, as
well as representatives from education, government and consumer groups.
ASE means Good News for Consumers
ASE-certified technicians have proven their competency to you, to their employers, and to themselves by passing
national, standardized exams.
Because ASE's program is voluntary, technicians who have paid in time and money to earn ASE certification can
be counted on to have a strong sense of pride in their profession. Moreover, prior to taking ASE exams, many
mechanics attend training classes or study after work to increase their knowledge, another plus for consumers.
ASE certifies only the individual technician, not the repair shop itself, but it stands to reason that employers and
managers who encourage their technicians to earn ASE's national credentials will be concerned about all aspects
of their business.
The Nuts and Bolts of ASE Certification
Twice a year some 100,000 technicians sit for ASE certification exams at over 600 locations. The exams are
administered in the field by ACT, the same organization that offers college entrance and other professional exams.
The exams, which stress real-world diagnostic and repair problems, are designed by representatives from the
automotive service and repair industry, vocational educators, and ASE's own in-house technical specialists.
There are eight automobile exams: Engine Repair, Engine Performance, Electrical/Electronic Systems, Brakes,
Heating and Air Conditioning, Suspension and Steering, Manual Drive Train and Axles, and Automatic
Transmissions. There are also tests for collision repair/refinish technicians, engine machinists, parts specialists,
and medium/heavy truck technicians.
The exams are no cinch to pass; on average, one out of three test takers fail any given exam. But those who pass
and fulfill the work experience requirement earn the title of ASE-certified Automobile Technician, while those
who pass all eight auto exams earn Master Auto Technician status.
Every ASE technician is issued credentials listing his (or her) exact areas of certification and an appropriate
shoulder insignia.
Nor does it end there: certification is not for life; ASE requires its technicians to recertify every five years to keep
up with technology and to stay certified.
How to Find an ASE Certified Technician
ASE-certified technicians can be found at every type of repair facility: new car dealerships, independent garages,
service stations, tire dealers, special shops, and major franchises. There are about 375,000 ASE technicians at
work across the nation.
Repair facilities with one or more ASE-certified technicians are entitled to display the blue and white ASE sign
and post their certified technicians' credentials in the customer service area.
Choosing the Right Technician
As with physicians, auto technicians specialize. Because ASE offers certification in all major technical areas of
auto repair and service, it's wise to ask the shop owner or service manager specifically for a technician who is
certified in the appropriate area, say, brakes, engine repair, or air conditioning. The technicians are issued
pocket-sized credential cards listing their exact areas of certification.
For free information about ASE technician certification, send a business-sized, self-addressed, stamped envelope
to: ASE Consumer Brochure, Dept. CCC-F95, P.O. Box 347, Herndon, VA 22070.
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KNOW YOUR RIGHTS!
When It Comes To Your Vehicle Repair & Maintenance
From Acura to Volvo, Buick to Saturn, we can help you protect your new car or truck warranty. By using our quality
service and parts, our technicians can perform all of your new foreign or domestic vehicle's maintenance and
repairs while keeping your warranty in effect. You don't have to return to the New Car Dealer for scheduled service
or checkups to ensure your manufacture's warranty remains in force. We bring you this information because you
have the right to have your vehicle serviced wherever you choose.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS BY OWNERS OF NEW OR LEASED VEHICLES
My new car dealer says I have to return to their facility for all of my car's maintenance to keep from voiding the
warranty. Is this true? Absolutely Not. You can have routine service done by any competent independent service
station, shop or garage and still maintain your warranty.
Do I have to use the manufacturer's original equipment parts to keep my warranty valid? No! The Magnuson-Moss
Warranty act prohibits automakers from specifying the use of their or anyone else's parts for your vehicle's
maintenance. You may use any brand-name quality parts such as CARQUEST to replace fan belts, hoses, brakes,
exhausts, chassis parts, oil and more.
What do I have to do to keep my car or truck's warranty in effect? Make sure your vehicle is serviced at the intervals
specified in your Owner's Manual or Warranty Booklet and keep very clear records of your vehicles maintenance.
Be sure to have the date, parts installed, vehicle identification number, and mileage recorded on the invoice.
Keep these receipts in a safe place. If you have a service log in your Owner's Manual or Warranty Booklet, use it.
My car is a leased vehicle. Am I responsible for maintenance? Yes! Even if you lease a vehicle you are
responsible for all maintenance and repairs and to keep the vehicle in good working order and condition as
outlined in the Owner's Manual.
What parts should be replaced and at what intervals should these services be performed? Check your owner's
manual. It will give you all of the information you need regarding what parts to replace and when to do it. Make
sure to read it thoroughly and note any exceptions or severe service notations. Warranties are there to protect the
consumer, but you must follow, the requirements.
What if my new car needs repairs other than regularly scheduled maintenance such as a brake job or other
repairs? Do I have to return to the dealer for these repairs? What if these repairs are covered under my warranty?
The choice of where to have your car serviced and repaired is yours. AS far as repairs covered by the warranty, you
will probably have to take the car back to the dealer. Thoroughly check your warranty to be certain that the repairs
are covered.
How does the quality of aftermarket parts compare with original equipment parts? Some are manufactured by the
same supplier and may even be warranted longer than original equipment parts.
If I do have a warranty-related problem with a dealership, what rights do I have? If you have a problem, contact
the customer service department of the car manufacturer and ask for assistance. They are concerned with
customer satisfaction, and may be able to help. If not, call the Federal Trade Commission at (202) 326-3128.
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Monday through Friday: 8:00 a.m. - 6:00 p.m. Saturday: 9:00 a.m. - 3:00 p.m.
-- Location --
8201 Washington Blvd. Jessup, MD. 20794
-- Contact us --
Phone: 301-596-4828 Fax:410-799-2000
automotive@gmail.com
-- Payments --
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Also Cash and money order accepted
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Special license plate frame 2. R&I Air Bag sensor 3. R&I air intake componets 4. R&I batter 5. R&I emblems/nameplates 6. Retape emblems/nameplates 7. R&I
driving lights 8. Aim Lamps 9. Remove moulding 10. Remove stripetape/decals 11. R&I valance 12. R&I energy absorber 13. R&I license bracket 14. Drill to
install 15. R&I accessory items 16. Remove moulding 17. R&I spoiler/flares 18. R&I body sheet metal 19. R&I bolted on parts 20. Adjust/bleed brakes 21. Brake
fluid 22. R&I drive train 23. Setup and measure unibody 24. Align unibody 25. Align strut towers 26. R&I wiring 27. Remove fuel from tank and store 28. R&I
fuel tank 29. Replace fuel 30. R&I wheel 31. Remove special wheel lock 32. Metal finish 33. R&I exhaust 34. Wheel alignment 35. Setup/measure perimeter
frame 36. R&I header panel 37. Straighten sway 38. Straighten twist 39. Straighten rail 40. Additional setup 41. Straighten diamond 42. Straighten X-member
43. R&I accessory items 44. Adjust belts 45. Coolant 46. Adjust belts Not-Includeds: How Well Do You Know the P-Pages? The first rule of estimating is: Always
assume something was left off the estimate. Your job: Find and add missing procedures. It can be fun to "outfox the fox," and you might even make it a game
to sharpen your skills. You need three basic tools: Mitchell's, Motor's, and ADP's P-Pages. Study them. (All great books of knowledge are worthless until read
and studied.) Once you master the process, you can review an adjuster's sheet in minutes and list anywhere from 1-100 omitted items. For each estimate, use
the P-Page book for the estimating system the adjuster used. A short list of commonly omitted items: l. Epoxy primer for rust-corrosion protection. Should be
used whenever you expose bare metal. 2. Weld-thru primer (CCC allows labor and material; Mitchell/ADP include labor but no materials.) 3. Damage access.
The books refer to "new undamaged panels"; how many cars are new and undamaged? 4. Pre-pulls before cutting sheet metal. 5. Hazardous waste removal
fees, including recordkeeping costs. Charge tire disposal fees when repair requires buying new tires. 6. Bag the car for overspray. Normally we have to do this
twice: for priming and again for painting. 7. Wax coating new inner parts (fenders/hoods/doors, rails, etc.). Look at the old parts; you'll normally see a wax
coating on the back. The manual for the specific make/model of car will have diagrams showing exactly where to wax the parts. 8. Removal of undercoating
before repair/replacement. BMWs and Mercedes require extensive additional labor; so do most other vehicles. 9. Sound pads in doors and on trunk floors.
Charge material and labor separately. 10.4-wheel alignment. Most car makers recommend this after a collision. Collect and read factory manuals for
makes/models you work on. 11. Tint color to match vehicle (charge twice when you have 2 colors). This isn't an "included" item. Add time for 2-tone jobs, per
P-Pages. 12. Removal of stripes. Old stripes have to be removed prior to refinishing. A separate charge applies. 13. Remove trim and hardware. Replacement of
a fender never includes such items as the radio antenna, mudflaps, and other trim. These should be separate charges. 14. Drill to install moldings, mirrors, radio
antenna, etc. Clean up LKQ parts; additional time (double overhaul) of used parts. Remember, the old door has to be gutted to transfer the inner parts. 15.
Panel burn and prep adjacent panels. A radiator support, when installed, will often burn the tips of the aprons. The welds have to be cleaned up and the areas
treated. 16. Remove molding adhesive or emblem adhesive. This isn't included in the time to replace the part. 17. Cleaning and retaping moldings or
nameplates isn't included if you re-use them. Most often it's more cost-effective to replace, but if you save them, charge for your time. 18.Color/sand and buff
isn't included but nearly always needed. Formulas are available (often 30% of the paint time) to calculate time. l9. Urethane kits (for windshields, quarter glass,
back glass) are extra costs you should list on estimates. 20. Removal of fenders to install a radiator support is rarely included. If both fenders are being
replaced, it's not important; it is if you replace one side and repair the other. Make a separate charge to R&I a fender you're not replacing. 21. Repair and
refinish "pinch clamp" marks left after a car is removed from the bench. Restoring preloss condition includes removing telltale signs a car was mounted on a
bench. 22. Check and test, or replace seat belts. Refer to both the owner's manual and the manual for the make/model in question. I-CAR has a procedure; it
shouldn't be free. 23. Charge storage on total-loss vehicles, including the cost of cleaning up oil spills. Charge for extra labor to dolly a car in and out of the shop
or place the vehicle on a lift for adjusters to inspect. Charge inspection and administrative fees to prepare an estimate or supplement on a borderline total. 24.
Replace one-time suspension fasteners when you remove suspension. Check with car manufacturer. 25. Charge to drain/store fuel. R&I the gas tank doesn't
include draining and storing fuel. Seldom is the tank empty when it needs to be removed. 26. Mask off openings. When refinishing a radiator support, we need
to mask the engine compartment. Likewise the door openings when we do a rocker or quarter panel. Mitchell explains this process well in its P-Pages. 27. When
you sleeve a quarter, rocker, or pillar, charge for the labor to build the sleeve; it isn't included. 28. Removal of urethane-set glass (back glass, quarter glass,
etc.) isn't normally included in time to replace the quarter panel. Check the provider's P-pages. 29. Panel bonding adhesive and expandable foam. More and
more quarter panels have a foam adhesive sandwiched between the outer and inner panels. 30. Brake and other fluids when you bleed brakes, or perhaps
replace a power steering pump. Maybe just replacing windshield washer fluids. Everyone remembers anti-freeze but we often add other fluids. Make a fair
charge. 31. Charge for bumper repair kits, fiberglass materials, and plastic welding supplies. 32. Charge for clearcoat on inner surfaces. All paint manufacturers
insist you clearcoat inner surfaces of two-stage paints. 33. Degrease and steam-clean the engine compartment before working in area. Check under the hood to
see if this is required. 34. Butyl tape for tail lights of some makes and models, as well as for some bolted in quarter glass. 35. Disable air bag and remove
computers if welding in area. I-CAR has procedures for this. 36. R&I stereo, speakers, amps when in the way or welding in area. 37. Misc. clips and fasteners
either from your own inventory or bought from the dealer. 38. Remove chip guard and replace. Formulas are listed in P-Pages. 39. Remove stone protectors
(plastic) found on most truck beds and replace them. Add time to remove adhesive; this isn't included in R&R. 40. Charge for AC "O" rings replaced. 41. Free up
rusted or frozen bolts. 42. Replace underhood decals. 43. VIN stickers on doors or quarters. You need time to remove a decal (cut it out) and secure a new one.
Put the old ones in the glove box. 44. Charge for flex additive on bumpers and other plastic parts. 45. Aim headlights. Some systems pick this up automatically;
others require a separate entry. 46. Charge to remove tool boxes, bedliners, racks, and camper shells to repair truck beds, plus other accessories like grille
guards, stainless kits. 47. Remove and replace foam tape on bedrails of trucks w/camper shells. 48. Clean up broken glass. Remove tar and grease. 49.
Replace aftermarket wheel-opening and door edge-guard moldings; remove adhesive. 50. Replace paint protection packages such as the "polyglycoat" and
other teflon-type sealers. Often this must be done 90 days after the repaint; ask your paint supplier's advice. This isn't a complete list of P-page items. You'll
find many more when you study the manuals. The collision business has a reported national net profit pof less than 5%. This means you must do $100 of
business to net $5. Always recall the advice of a now retired collision repair executive: "If you don't ask, you don't get." When you incur an expense that falls
outside the realm of the P-Pages, find a way to get paid fairly. It's your business; you're free to "give away" any of these items. At our shop, we regularly
charge fairly for all these items, and we regularly collect.
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